*DO NOT climb during the months of April, May and June as it is a nesting period.
It is possible to reach Calp by way of the N-332 road or the AP-7 motorway, taking exit number 64 Altea/Calp so as to continue along the N-332 road in the direction of Calp/València. To get to the northwest face, leave the car in the car park that gives access to the interpretation centre of the natural park.
From the northern car park, take the ascending track that leads to the interpretation centre, so as to then continue along the path that leads to the summit and that passes along the base of the wall. 15 minutes.
1. Verde esmeralda
120 m, 6a+
An interesting climb that begins from the characteristic cave located a few metres before reaching the tunnel. The second pitch stands out, currently equipped with chemical anchorage rings. During the rest of the route, it is necessary to place some pieces of self-protection.
2. Vampiro
120 m, 6c+
A very technical route that runs along slabs at all times. As it is currently not very frequented, moss grows on the wall, which makes progression even more difficult. The route is equipped in the style of the time when it was opened, with spits and nails which are now quite damaged.
3. Asignatura pendiente
120 m, 6b
With similar characteristics to the previous one but somewhat simpler. Old equipment.
4. Sinfonía de las gaviotas
160 m, 6b/A2
Off-road roped itinerary, somewhat difficult to follow in its upper part, where some detours appear.
5. Matas - Lozano
180 m, 6a/A1
A beautiful route; it is the work of the magnificent Murcian rope team which it is named after. Its logical layout links dihedrals and fissures in an elegant way. The dihedral of the second pitch and the vertical fissure of the fifth stand out for their beauty. Recommendable.
6. Roxy
180 m, 6b
Possibly the most beautiful of the routes that cross the north face, and the one people most often repeat. This itinerary connects the best pitches of the Matas-Lozano and Diedre Botella routes with the last pitch of the Directa Murciana. For this, two runs were opened with an approximate difficulty of 6b. The result was a beautiful and original itinerary. The route ascends through dihedrals, slabs and fissures of good rock. Not to be missed.
7. Pany
240 m, 4+
The first of the climbing routes opened on Penyal d’Ifac (Ifac massif) and the one with the least difficulty. This route, very grassy at the beginning, gradually gains verticality and atmosphere, and offers very beautiful pitches in the final sections. Quite a popular route.
8. Piel de talco
240 m, 5+
Interesting route, a little more complicated than via Pany, but without exceeding grade 5 in any pitch. The layout in the final sections is somewhat vague.
9. Tropical gangster
240 m, 6b
Interesting route, although poorly maintained. The third pitch stands out for its difficulty.
10. Pere Cabrera
250 m, 5+/A1
It has a clear and very attractive beginning. On the contrary, the rest of the route is very grassy and a little irregular.
11. Potencia peluquera
160 m, 6c+/A1
Magnificent high-quality rock route. The most delicate steps are equipped with bolts, but one will have to make optimal use of the floating material for most of the route. The descent is rappelled along the same route. Highly recommended.
12. Puñalada trapera
165 m, 6b+/A3
Modern route with pitches of great beauty, for both artificial and free climbing. Its layout runs diagonally along the western buttress of the rock. At the beginning of the second pitch, the route has a passage, quite exposed, which acts as a "repellent" for many rope teams. Very good route, for competent rope teams.
13. El hoy fugaz es tenue y es eterno, otro cielo no esperes ni otro infierno
220 m, 5a/A3+
Modern, spectacular and laborious route. It goes through an apparently difficult to access area, having to get past three roofs with hook steps, for which it is necessary to do real acrobatics on the stirrups. Reserved for lovers of artificial climbing.